The Ultimate Guide to Dog Collars: Types, Safety & Selecting the Right Collar

The first step in keeping your dog safe and secure is choosing the right collar. A well-fitting collar has a few uses: It’s the place you hang ID tags, it’s a handle for when you need to hold your dog steady on the sidewalk and (if employed humanely) it’s an effective training tool. Indeed, all pets … should always be wearing a collar with an ID tag (that is updated with your current contact information), according to the ASPCA. Collars also allow you to attach a leash in the snap of a finger if your dog decides to walk off.

Dog collars: “safety, fit and function are the most important” As veterinarians point out, when choosing dog collars”. A collar should never choke or harm a dog in any way and it must be effective at catching my control or training tab without causing harm. Here we dissect the main collar varieties, important safety features and a few fit tips. You’ll also see tutorials of veterinarians or professional trainers guiding dog owners on what to avoid. You want to keep your dog safe, easy to recognize and happy with their collar by following these guidelines.

Why Dog Collars Matter

1. Identification & Safety

Collars can carry identification tags (name, phone number, address) so that owners can be reunited with lost pets. Indoor pets, in fact, the aforementioned organization states “ should always wear a collar and an ID tag”. And of course, a collar is where you clip on a leash to take your dog for walks or keep him from running off into danger.

2. Control & Training

Collars can provide a low-impact alternative allowing you to have a handle on your dog during walks and training. Collars themselves don’t train a dog, but they enable you to gently cue (and reward) behavior. For more on using collars and other gear in positive training, check our Training Tools & Techniques Guide.

3. Comfortable & Durable

It’s a daily collar that should be comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. Seek out quality materials (padded nylon, leather or the like) that won’t degrade and fray or poke. If your dog has sensitive skin, opt for hypoallergenic materials such as leather or all-organic fabrics to avoid any irritation. Stay away from stiff or rough materials; collars that are well-padded, smooth, or soft on the skin can help to prevent chafing especially in dogs with skin allergies.

Types of Dog Collars

Knowing some of the main designs for dog collars helps you choose one best suited to your dog’s needs. Here are the most popular varieties, with their uses and cautions:

1. Flat (Buckle)

Everyday collar, comes with either a buckle or plastic snap closure and is slip over the dog’s head. It accommodates ID tags and is suitable for casual walks. Warning: Obtain a snug fit too loose and the dog may slip out, too tight and could cause lunging to put excessive pressure on the neck. Don’t forget, you’ll need a safe buckle or snap that it won’t leap out of on its own. Check flat collars often for any signs of fraying in the fabric and wear and tear on hardware.

2. Martingale (Limited-Slip)

Collar For dogs that are likely to slip or back out of traditional collars, a martingale collar has an extra loop that tightens around the dog’s neck if it tries to escape. It is often suggested for greyhounds or whippets (which have narrow heads) and to train dogs not to pull. Pros: When the right size is used, it will prevent escapes without completely choking out your dog. Caution: It does shrink under tension, so be sure it is cut to fit. VCA veterinarians caution that a martingale needs to be adjusted so it won’t choke even when at its tightest. Misused or too slack, it can be dangerous, and VCA also recommends training with a martingale only using positive reinforcement they are “not recommended as a training tool” for choke-based training. Explore Martingale Collar Guide.

3. Head Halter (No-Pull Halter)

This is similar to a gentle muzzle that goes around the nose and behind the ears. When the dog pulls, the Gentle Leader head-collar gently moves the head and body back towards you. frame 7remains customers’ favorite control solution with its difference-making design for strong pullers. Pros: Ideal for dogs that are large and strong, or ones that tend to lunge. Warning: Lots of dogs have to be introduced slowly to the device. Never leave a head halter on an unattended dog; “They should only be used in combination with a leash (not for tethering), and the owner needs to have the leash in their hand so that if something does happen, they can take control,” says VCA. Follow fit instructions closely so the halter can have gentle pressure, not choking. (See our Head Collar Fit & Safety Guide).

4. Body Harness

Not a collar, but rather wraps around the chest This is an option for those who are trying to train their dog and dogs with neck problems. The pressure your dog feels while wearing a harness is spread out across their body. Pros: Experts at the VCA note that a properly fit harness “puts little pressure upon delicate tissue and [is] a good option for dogs with tracheal damage or neck pain. If your pup pulls on leash or has a respiratory problem (i.e. flat face breeds like bulldogs and pugs), then a harness is going to be far safer and more comfortable than a collar.

5. Breakaway Collar

Collars with a quick-release buckle that pops open when pressure is exerted (common for cats, but available for dogs too). Pros: When a dog gets hung up (it can get stuck in a fence, around crate bars, etc.), the collar is designed to break away to avoid strangulation. Some include two rings: one breakaway for everyday wear and a second sturdy ring for the leash (you’ll clip it to both when you walk). Note of caution: You should not attach a leash only to the breakaway part, because even when it is not desired, the collar could release and the dog might get away. Always use both rings when you’re walking, use the standard leash ring.

6. Slip (Choke) Collar

A loop of chain or nylon that tightens when the dog pulls. Warning: These are mostly not suitable for everyday casual wear. They tighten around the neck and pose a safety hazard. These days, it’s shunned by the progressive dog training community because of potential damage to the neck. If used its to be advised under professional supervision and never left unattended. For more on what collars to steer clear of, check out Slip Lead vs Harness: When to Use Which.

7. Prong (Pinch) Collar

A metal collar with prongs that point inward. Caution: Prong collars are controversial. In theory, they distribute pressure evenly around the neck. But to many trainers and veterinarians (including the American College of Vet Behaviorists), they are aversive tools. Prong collars are listed as “tools that are not recommended” by the VCA, since they cause pain to your dog. They may provoke throat or skin injuries, anxiety and aggression if misused. Pulling them on a dog should only be considered under very strict professional guidance, and even then only in very specific training cases (like with working dogs) not as a default tool. Safer, more constructive methods are highly advisable.

8. Reflective/LED Collars

More of a feature than an actual collar but very important. These collars come with built-in reflective strips, or LED lights attached to make your dog visible at night. Just as important for early morning or evening strolls is a reflective collar and leash, which can save lives. According to the ASPCA, a “reflective pet collar with an ID tag is a simple and effective means of ensuring your pet can be easily identified” if they happen to escape in low light. Think about a collar that has removable lights, or to which you can clip additional ones. Have a gander at our LED vs Reflective Collars Guide if you want to compare night-safety collars.

Fitting & Safety Tips

Good Fit(Two-Finger Rule) A collar should Not be loose enough to fit between your dogs collar and neck. You should be able to comfortably slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. “If you can’t fit two fingers, the collar’s too tight; if you can fit three it may be too loose and slip off. Always measure your dog’s neck (with a bit more added for comfort) before you buy a collar. The fit should be checked regularly (at least every 1-2 months) and with growing puppies or after weight loss re-checked every now and then depending on there growth.

Placement: It should sit high up on the neck behind the ears, making contact with the jawline. This offers the best control without strangling the windpipe. Attach a head halter high under the jaw, for example; make sure a harness doesn’t chafe its wearer in the underarms.

Don’t Wear Dangling or Risky Hardware: Take off tags and charms that can snag. Never attach a prong or choke collar to a harness (only to a leash and collars specifically designed for it). Keep breakaway buckles on collar plates if your dog accesses thick brush or is unsupervised in a crate. Always watch your dog play; if he gets entangled in a fence or playground equipment cut him loose.

Routine Check: Consider your collars and leashes part of the safety gear. Examine them every day for fraying, rusting or broken stitches. Test the buckle/clasp regularly. A cracked or broken collar can snap without warning. Replace any worn gear immediately. If you use cloth or leather collars, hand-wash them every so often to get rid of oils and bacteria (they rest against the dog’s skin all day).

Put Away Old Collars: If you’re really just stretching out used collars, or if the hardware’s getting brittle or the color super faded, find a new one. In general, if you reach out to grab the buckle or D-ring and it feels flimsy or deformed in any way, don’t trust it. If there had been an emergency, a broken collar could have lead to a lost dog or worse.

Visibility: In addition to collars, you may want to incorporate reflective tape on your dog’s leash or harness. If you’re walking your dog at night, keep Fido close and visible – try a lighted collar or attach a blinking LED to make sure drivers and cyclists are aware of your dog’s presence.

Choosing the Right Collar

But with so many options, how do you choose? Match the collar to your dog’s weight, size, breed and activity level:

Puppies: Begin by using a lightweight, adjustable flat collar when your puppy is 8-10 weeks old. Leave it slack until they fit into it and make sure you check them regularly to ensure that has not moved out of their two-finger span.

Everyday Use: For adults, a sturdy flat collar or martingale is suitable for most breeds. If you have a dog that never pulls, any simple flat collar (made from nylon or leather) will work just fine.

Greyhounds/Sighthounds: These breeds should ideally have only martingale (or wide flat) collars because they have heads that are smaller than their necks. It holds preventing escape but not so much that it gasps.

Tiny Dogs: Micro size dogs are more prone to have trouble breathing and could be strangled by a traditional collar. A flat collar or lightweight harness is often a safer option.

Pullers: If your dog is an intense puller, opt for a front-clip harness rather than just a collar. This redirects pulling energy. (Note: VCA recommends that a front-clip harness should not be worn when unsupervised to avoid tangling.) You can also try a mild head halter for more control, introduced slowly.

Outdoor Adventurers: If your dog loves hiking, and is also an escape artist, a sturdy buckle collar with ID + a GPS pet tracker tag would make a great combo. Also include a breakaway segment if they roam through thick foliage. You’ll need a reflective or LED collar for dawn/dusk adventures.

Indoor/Quiet Dogs: For dogs who are indoors a lot of the time, and do not take long walks, lighter and more comfortable collars are acceptable. ID tags should stay on even in the house, in case of an escape.

Most important, pick a collar meant for dogs (not one made for cats, which have breakaway by default). So many of the collars are “S,M,L” sizes, complete with weight and neck measurements. Refer to a size chart, and double-check with a tape measure. If you’re buying online, pay close attention to the width (narrow collars can dig into pulling hounds; overly wide ones may chafe small dogs).

Avoiding Dangerous Collars

Some collars are highly discouraged by behaviorists:

Choke/Slip Collar: Tightens and remains tight indefinitely when pulled. They can choke or damage the windpipe. Steer clear of them except under a trainer’s supervision (and only short term).

Prong (Pinch) Collars: These apply a pinching sensation to the neck. Vets caution that they are aversive and can cause pain and fear. Use only if a highly qualified trainer truly feels this is needed for a serious behavioral issue and even so, only for very short training sessions.

Shock/E-Collars: A dog receives an electric shock or beep with these. Studies (and the veterinary behaviorists I’ve consulted) show that prong collars cause stress and don’t teach better obedience than reward-based methods. In reality, dogs may feel anxious or threatened to avoid the shock. We do not endorse shock collars. If you are tempted to pop one on your dog for recall or confinement, consult a certified trainer first about positive alternatives.

What the Experts Say: The use of confrontation-based collars that rely on pain or fear, wrote American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, “are inappropriate for this species and are not recommended as they must ultimately compete with both fears experienced by owners and those subsequently associated directly” with wearing them. Instead treat- or praise-based rewards make for happier, more confident dogs. Positive reinforcement makes dogs want to please, punishment can cause resentment or fear.

Frequently asked Questions