Teaching your dog is more than just commands. It’s about clear communication and a strong bond. The right tools can help create better outcomes by making training new behaviors safer and more effective, but should complement a positive, reward-based attitude. In this guide, we cover the most widely used training aids – what each one does and how to use them properly. We touch on clickers, leashes and harnesses, special-purpose collars and more. At every turn, we stress expert opinion: employ reward-based techniques whenever you can, don’t use tools that cause pain or fear and always have the comfort and trust of your dog foremost in mind.
Why Training Tools Matter
Dog training gear is assistance, not wizardry. They assist you in signalling to your dog more clearly, especially at the very beginning of learning. For instance, a clicker allows you to tell your dog the instant he did something right. Before starting the walk, allow your puppy time to explore its new surroundings whilst on the lead.
But any tool can be dangerous if you don’t know how to use it. As veterinary behaviorists caution, gear that relies on pain or fear can have unintended consequences. Tools like choke, prong or shock collars that rely on punishment have been found to be “associated with increased fear, increased aggression, [and] decreased welfare” in dogs. In other words, your dog may cease the behavior out of fear (not comprehension) which can ruin the relationship. In contrast, positive tools (treats, clickers, soft guidance devices) help facilitate learning and trust.
Training tools, think about like teaching aids in school: There’s some use for them if applied appropriately. However, used the wrong way, they can be completely useless or even harmful. The following are some of the common tools we use and how the experts advise they be used safely and effectively.
Essential Training Tools
Clicker: A small handheld noisemaker that signifies a correct behavior as soon as it occurs. Clicker training is a positive reinforcement: You click, you give the treat. This timing will let your dog know exactly what it was that she did that you liked. Clicker (or marker word) training “makes positive reinforcement more efficient” by adding clarity, according the AKC. Loved this brand ideal, use the click only for good so that your dog learns to do it again and again to get your reward. (Tip: Have high-value treats handy and click the second your dog does what you want it to do.)
Treat Pouch: When you are taking treats along as rewards, a pouch comes in very handy. The ideal training pouch has several pockets (for treats, poop bags or a clicker), and a strong closure. It fastens around your waist for easy access. Use small, soft treats that your dog loves and can consume immediately. Definitely, keep most treats in one main pocket for easy access — and maybe a few especially smelly, high-value-noun treats in another. Empty the pouch out often (shake free of crumbs and wipe with disinfectant) so it doesn’t become wet or moldy.
Leash & Long Line A strong leash really is a must. For routine walks, however, leave your training leash at home and instead use a 4–6 foot leash connected to a flat collar or harness (never attach a regular leash to the retractable cord). A long line (15-30 ft) is a wonderful aid for teaching the recalls off leash. Always connect long lines to a well-fitting harness, not a collar, because you can cause injury to your dog’s neck. Start in a quiet, enclosed area: let the long line drag behind your dog at first and allow it to have slack as he comes back on the command. When your dog is attached to a harness, never wrap the leash or long line around your hand (you will almost certainly get injured if your dog pulls suddenly). To tame a long line, master leash-lock grip or simply wear gloves. See our Long-Line Lead Guide for more on recall training with a long line.
Harnesses: A harness (front or back clip) can actually be a training tool. The front-clip harness connects the leash at the chest, which makes it more difficult for a pulling dog to turn away from you. A back-clip harness is secured at the back of the shoulders for everyday walking. Harnesses are also kinder on dogs with neck or throat issues. VCA veterinarians say that a body harness “goes around the torso,” and it can be used to guide a dog in such a way that you do not inadvertently choke the neck. But front-clip harnesses can get tangled; VCA recommends taking them off if your dog will not be supervised, to prevent accidents. Always make sure a harness is snug without being tight and does not rub under the legs.
Head Halter (Nose Halter): Shaped like a horse halter for a dog, this loops around the nose and back of the head. As it does on hot cars, the steering gently turns their head towards you when they pull. It is particularly well suited to strong pullers or dogs who are easily excited as their natural inclination causes them to stop when turned. ” Nonetheless, head halters take dogs patience: most must be slowly conditioned to tolerate a proper fit. Never jerk a head halter – apply slow, steady pressure and release immediately after your dog changes course. VCA cautions to ensure that head halters are used only under control (i.e., leash in hand) and not allow a dog to have a halter on if allowed to run loose, because they can back out of them or harm themselves. Used correctly, a head halter can give you that essential communication you need, but be sure to always keep things gentle and positive while your dog is wearing it.
Martingale Collar: (Also known as a limited-slip collar) This is basically a flat collar with a cinching loop. If a dog backs out of it, the loop tightens softly. Martingales are frequently used on breeds such as Greyhounds. They are to be used as a management technique, not a punishment. As already mentioned, VCA emphasizes getting this as snug as you can bear – enough so that they can’t escape but not enough to choke. NEVER attach a martingale to an active slip-knot loop (the dog must always be contained within the leash). Since martingales still pull tight, some handlers look for methods other than this one to discourage pulling: use a harness or a front-clip harness instead.
Prong/Pinch Collar: A collar made of metal with prongs that point in. When leash is pulled, it applies even presure around the neck. We include it for the sake of completeness, but strongly recommend against using it. Prong collars are considered aversive by many in the canine profession. Misuse can harm your dog’s neck and cause fear. If you are considering using a prong collar, make sure that you’re not just tooling around solo and know exactly what you’re doing or better option are working with a certified trainer. Even then, only use it briefly. In many cases, it is possible to achieve the same training goals in a gentler manner using a well-fit harness or head halter. Remember, VCA specifically advises against pinch collars as they are “designed to inflict an aversive experience”.
Treats & Toys: Not in the “tools” sense of a thing you can hold and click or tug with, but high-value treats (like real meat) and favorite toys are probably the most powerful tools in your toolbox. Have lots on hand so you can reward success. For clicker training you will want to use very small soft treats that you can easily tear and go through quickly. For active dogs, toys (like tug ropes or fetch balls) are great food motivators. Rotate treats to keep your dog enthusiastic use every day kibble in limited amounts and save the good stuff for real training sessions.
Using Equipment Correctly
Introduce Tools Gradually: Whenever introducing a new tool (a harness or head halter, say), first allow the dog to sniff and investigate it. Do this for a minute, then take it off and praise your dog. Work your way up in wear time so they get adjusted before you use it for actual training.
Pair With Rewards: The tool is only half the plan — no matter which one you choose, make sure to use it in conjunction with some good old positive reinforcement. For example, when you place a head halter on your dog, give him a treat right then so he associates it with something positive. Eventually, your dog will look forward to wearing the gear because it predicts rewards. The same is true for leash: As soon as you clip the leash on, engage in a fun game of training or go to play so your dog knows good stuff comes from it.
Mind the Fit Every Time: Every time you put on your dog’s equipment, give it a safety check. Buckle the buckles all the way, clip the leash tightly and make sure nothing is twisted. For harnesses, straps should sit flat and not be so tight that they pinch or chafe. For collars, be able to stick two fingers beneath them after you’ve buckled. If things feel weird, if the dog looks distressed: call an end and correct it.
Monitor With Tools: Never leave a dog unattended with training equipment on, unless in the case of a loose flat collar (with ID tags). Items like martingale collars, head halters and harnesses are intended for hands-on training. Remove them when the training session ends, or if your dog is left unattended, so you don’t risk entanglement.
Leverage Positive Cues: The AKC dog training experts explain that what we should be doing is “rewarding the behavior you want to see,” and not punishing the bad. If a tool is something you’d only use in relatively rare situations in which your dog does something wrong (relatively compared with other dogs, that is — like tightening a prong collar), reconsider it. Can you create the same effect by clicking and feeding for a calmer reaction? The fastest (and least stressful) way to teach most dogs is to tell them what you want, rather than what you don’t.
DEFEND IN DEPTH: The safest approach is to deploy layers of gear. A standard gear package is a flat collar with tags, along with a harness for walks. If you need a no-pull device, attach that to the harness or the head. That way, if one part fails you have another to fall back on (e.g. your clip snaps but the flat collar with ID tag is still good). Never use one collar for everything, especially if your dog will be on-leash or walking on slippery flooring.
Positive vs. Punishment-Based Methods
Dogs are neutral, it’s how you use your training tools that counts. Training sessions should not be a punishment or a treatment exercise. As a rule:
Positive Reinforcement: Begin with positive reinforcement. Reinforce good behavior with a reward such as treats, praise, or play at the moment the dog follows a cue (e.g., sits when instructed to do so). And that’s how your dog wants to obey. As you go along, gradually phase out treats by varying back and forth between using them and not to keep your dog guessing about what you’re going to want from him.
Ignore (or Distract) Bad Behavior: Instead of punishing your dog for a mistake, sometimes you can deny reinforcement or simply divert their attention. If the dog jumps up, for instance, turn away and only pet it when all four paws are on the ground. This is a lesson in that calm behavior earns attention.
Don’t Use Force: There are tools that work by applying force to a dog, such as choke chains, prong collars or shock collars. Veterinary behaviorists agree: those approaches are more stressful and actually lead to worse aggression, not solving the source of the problem. Many times a dog reacts to pain, not the command.
It’s All About Consistency and Patience: Dogs need consistency. Commands and Timing Clear, consistent commands Tell the dog what to do. Even a delayed click or treat by just a second can be confusing to a dog. Calm practice and patience works so much (and better for the dogs) than brutal corrections.
Additional Tips
Breed and Age If it’s not broken, don’t fix it unless of course your dog demands something different. A small puppy will require a smaller collar and more gentle treatment than a large adult. Reflective collars or those made of braided nylon can be good options for active dogs. Greyhounds often wear martingales. Short-faced breeds (like Boxers, Bulldogs) usually fit into harnesses better because of potential breathing issues. Adapt as your dog grows or has new needs.
Gear Check: Look over all equipment once a week. Check for loose stitches, rusty metal parts or frayed webbing. A harness or leash should feel rock-solid in the hands, not cheap. Replace anything that looks worn. Make sure to wash fabric items every so often (hand or gentle machine washing, then air-dry) to avoid the smelly accumulation of skin bacteria.
Be Generous With Reinforcers: Many dogs are willing to do anything for the tiniest sliver of hot dog or cheese. And find out what your dog loves: stinky cheese, meaty chicken, small bits of liver and yes, even a game of tug can be huge rewards. Keep these in your training pouch, to grab your dog’s attention on those wet days.
Visibility and Safety Gear: Use a reflective leash or vest for yourself (and, if you’re outside in the dark, on your dog) and a light-up collar or clip for your dog. Stay alert to surroundings. If you do off-leash training in an open area, put a GPS pet tracker on your dog’s collar, just to be safe.
Get Help When Needed: If you’re dealing with behavioral challenges (aggression, anxiety, etc.) that you can’t work through using positive tools, seek the help of a certified dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist. They may be able to recommend specialized equipment (such as a properly fit muzzle for safety) and techniques for your individual situation.
FAQs about Dog Training Tools
Are there any times when it is OK to use a shock collar as part of training?
Almost always, no. Shock or electronic collars can inflict pain on your dog and cause anxiety or fear. That’s why vets and trainers typically recommend against them. They’ve even been shown to work no better than reward-based methods, for most tasks. If you’re thinking about one to manage a potentially dangerous situation (your dog bolts and runs into traffic, perhaps), then start by speaking with someone who works professionally on training dogs – in most cases, the clear specter of the person simply needing to use voice cues and call directly instead of using pain fucks up what’s actually only consistently necessary.
Do I have to have harness or collar for the training?
Both can be used. For most training exercises, a flat collar (with identification) is fine. But if your dog pulls hard or has breathing problems, then a front-clip harness is the superior tool for training loose-leash walking. A head halter is useful for guiding a strong puller. The point is to employ whatever device allows you to train comfortably and safely. With a front-clip harness, for example, VCA says you should take it off when the dog is unsupervised to reduce the risk of entanglement. Select the gear that fits your dog’s build and your control needs, using it along with positive reinforcement at (nearly) all times.
Head Halter vs. Harness: What Is the Difference?
A head halter goes around the dog’s head and nose enabling you to direct the head. A harness fits on the torso. Head halters are excellent for redirecting a dog’s attention; harnesses distribute pressure. You may also combine both: For maximum control (especially with a strong, large dog), some trainers connect a leash to the back of a harness and rely on a gentle head halter as well. Just calm introductions and treats to create positive associations with each.
How do you use a clicker in training?
First you will “charge” the clicker by clicking and treating until your dog understands that, “click = treat coming.” You then click during training at the split second your dog performs the correct action (for example, when its behind hits the ground for a sit). Then immediately give a treat. The click tells you which behavior to reinforce. In the long run, you’ll use less of those goodies, but keep clicking so your dog’s stops repeat his successes. A clicker eliminates that confusion and tops up a dog’s skill set much faster, says the AKC.
I only have a choke chain. Can I use that?
You should switch to something safer. Choke chains are difficult to use well, and easy to misuse. If you go this route, and there are certain situations where it might be called for temporarily, always combine it with a positive approach don’t jerk hard. A number of trainers have stopped using them altogether. If you’re unsure, opt for a martingale or no-pull harness instead, and concentrate on reward-based training.
What if my dog chews the leash or clicker?
Make your training sessions short and fun so you can keep your dog’s attention. When your dog begins to chew on the lead, end the walk. Occasionally if they walk or play for a little bit their attention can be reset. If all else fails, use a stronger leash. For dogs that like to chew, he recommended giving them a durable chew toy following the session or releasing some of their energy with a short game or walk before training again.